China · since 2014
Creality printers
The most common entry point
The Ender 3 put a printer in half the world's hands and remains the most modified machine in history. Today, the K range with Klipper competes on speed, but the main selling point is still the price and cheap spare parts.
Recommended slicer
Creality Print, OrcaSlicer or Cura
Ecosystem
Highly moddable, massive community, inconsistent factory quality
Downloadable PDF guide
Usage tips, an hour-based maintenance plan and starting temperatures for your Creality, in a PDF you can print and keep next to the machine.
Free, no sign-up. 2 pages.
Models and links to their official manual
Each model with a quick spec sheet and a direct link to the brand's official documentation.
Creality Ender 3 V3
CoreXZ · 220×220×250 mm · 600 mm/s
Official manualCreality Ender 3 V3 SE
Bed slinger · 220×220×250 mm · nivelado automático
Official manual Open model pageCreality Ender 3 V3 KE
Bed slinger Klipper · 220×220×240 mm
Official manualCreality K1 / K1C
CoreXY cerrada · 220³ mm · K1C con hotend hardened
Official manualCreality K2 Plus
CoreXY cerrada · 350³ mm · CFS multicolor
Official manualCreality Ender 3 / Pro / V2
Las clásicas · 220×220×250 mm
Official manual Open model page
What they do well
- Extremely cheap spare parts available in almost any shop
- Huge community: any issue you face has already been solved by someone else
- Very good base for upgrades (direct drive extruder, wheels, firmware)
Where they give trouble
- Factory assembly often comes with a loose bed and eccentric nuts: check them before printing
- Stock PTFE tubes degrade over time and cause clogs
- On models with locked Klipper, tweaking the firmware can void the warranty
Workshop tips for Creality
Initial setup check
Before your first print: tighten the eccentric nuts until the wheel turns with your finger but has no play, tension the belts, and check that the X-axis is level on both sides.
Replace the PTFE early
A Capricorn tube cut cleanly at a right angle eliminates half of chronic Ender clogs.
Proper manual levelling
Even if you have a probe, manual levelling at all four corners is still necessary: the probe compensates, it doesn't fix a warped bed.
Official support and downloads
- Official Creality Wiki
- Downloads and firmware
- OrcaSlicer
Much better profiles than Creality Print
Problems we solve step by step
The corners of the part are lifting (warping)
See the fixThe first layer isn't sticking to the bed
See the fixThe base of the part is flared (elephant foot)
See the fixHow to calibrate the nozzle height (Z-offset)
See the fixMy nozzle is clogged
See the fixLess material comes out than expected (under-extrusion)
See the fixIs your Creality not giving you what you need?
Sometimes the part is more urgent than the learning curve. Send us the file and we'll print it with the right material and settings from our workshop in Viladecavalls.
Still not working?
Tell Marco which printer and material you use and he'll tell you what to change.
Impresión 3D
