The corners of the part are lifting (warping)
Warping is not a printer fault: it is plastic physics. As a layer cools, it shrinks, and if the layer below is already cold and rigid, that contraction pulls the corners upwards. Anything you do to make the part cool slowly and evenly will reduce warping.
What the failure looks like
The print starts well, but from 1-2 cm in height, the corners peel off the bed and the base curves upwards. On large, flat parts, it is almost always the first thing to fail.
Causes, most likely first
- 01
Cooling down too quickly
Part cooling fan at 100% on materials that shrink significantly (ABS, ASA, PC, nylon). PLA tolerates it; the rest do not.
- 02
Draughts
An open window or air conditioning blowing at the printer causes warping even with the bed at the correct temperature.
- 03
Cold or poorly levelled bed
If the first layer is not adhered properly, shrinkage wins the battle within the first minute.
- 04
Dirty surface
Fingerprint grease residue on the glass or PEI significantly reduces adhesion.
- 05
Part geometry
Large, flat bases with 90° corners concentrate all the stress into four points.
Step-by-step fix
1. Set the bed to the correct temperature for the material
PLA 55-60 °C, PETG 70-80 °C, ABS/ASA 100-110 °C. If your bed cannot reach these temperatures, ABS will almost certainly warp.
2. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol
Wipe with 90% IPA before every run. Avoid touching the surface afterwards.
3. Add a brim
A 5-10 mm brim (8-12 lines) spreads the stress over a much larger area. It is the quickest solution and almost always works.
4. Enclose the printer
For ABS, ASA, PC and nylon, an enclosure is not optional. An acrylic box or even a cheap pop-up tent completely changes the outcome.
5. Lower the part cooling fan
ABS 0-10%, PETG 30-50%, PLA 100%. Except on the first layer, where it should always be off.
6. Round the corners in your design
A 2-3 mm radius on the base corners drastically reduces stress concentration.
| Material | Bed | Fan | Enclosure | Warping risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 55-60 °C | 100% | No | Low |
| PETG | 70-80 °C | 30-50% | Recommended | Medium |
| ABS / ASA | 100-110 °C | 0-10% | Mandatory | High |
| Nylon (PA) | 80-100 °C | 0% | Mandatory | Very high |
| TPU | 50-60 °C | 50% | No | Very low |
So it doesn't happen again
- Keep the printer away from windows and air conditioning outlets.
- Clean the PEI sheet or glass with IPA every few prints, not just when it fails.
- If a part has a base larger than 15 x 15 cm, add a brim as standard.
- Switch to PETG when ABS is not strictly necessary: it shrinks less than half as much.
Related questions
Does hairspray or a glue stick help?
Yes, especially on bare glass and with PETG (where it also acts as a release agent to stop it tearing chunks out of the glass). They do not replace a properly set heated bed, but they help.
What if only one corner warps?
It is almost always levelling: that area of the bed is lower or colder. Level by points and check that the glass is not warped.
Is a raft better than a brim?
Only on problematic print beds or parts with very little contact surface. It wastes more material, takes longer, and spoils the bottom finish. Try a brim first.
Keep reading
Want to go deeper? We have a full article about this on the blog.
What if it isn't worth your time?
Sometimes the part is more urgent than the learning curve. We're a workshop in Viladecavalls: send us the file and we'll print it with the right material and settings.
Still not working?
Tell Marco which printer and material you use and he'll tell you what to change.
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